How to read a wave – Lesson 2

Reading a wave accurately can be considered an art and is an important part of getting surfing well. As the practitioner progresses in surfing, his ability to read the waves increases and this happens when spending many hours in the ocean in all different conditions. 😜
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🌊   Pocket or Pouch: Where the wave is steepest. It is the most powerful wave area, where the biggest energy is found, and where the surfer draws the greatest speed, and also where the experience stronger sensations.
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🌊   Wall or face: the green/blue part of the wave standing, which hasn‘t burst yet. It‘s an area where the surfer can gain more stability, but if he stays in this area, he might lose speed.
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🌊   Shoulder or Shoulder: It‘s a much less energy zone compared to previous ones, and also less inclined. We should stay in this area for a short time so that we do not condemn such a slowdown that we do not allow ourselves to continue the race.
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🌊   Flat or Base: It‘s the flat zone in front of the wave. It‘s an area where there‘s even less energy than on the shoulder, however, it‘s inevitable that we‘re going through there, while we‘re moving between areas for greater energy and speed, especially while performing the bottom turn – turn on the base.
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🌊   Lip or lip: It‘s the white zone over the pocket. The top of the wave rises and breaks first. On the lip, we also find a lot of energy, and even though it‘s a very unstable area, it‘s where the best surfers apply some maneuvers or use general energy again.
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🌊   Impact Zone or Impact Zone: it‘s where the lip is based on the wave. This impact can be quite violent, so it should be a zone to avoid.
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🌊   Foam or White Water: It‘s the white zone of the wave that moves perpendicularly towards the beach. There is a lot of turbulence in this area, however, it is commonly used so that beginners can often repeat a certain exercise, safely and without disturbing the travel of good surfers.