Learn how to read waves – Lesson 1
Where can we begin to learn to read the sea and the waves? 🤔
The simplest thing is to start by identifying which waves are possible to take, for a learner.
The information we can learn about the sea is so much that you don‘t even expect this information to be easy to interpret or identify when you look at the sea because not always the waves will look so well drawn. (Crédits to the Designer!😉)
Fase 1. Broken waves or Whitewashed
Let’s start by learning in a place where we always have contact with the bottom, ′′ standing on the ground ′′ at lower tides and, where the waves are already broken or burst.
These waves we call “foam “, white waves, broken waves, whitewashed.
If you start here, you will also start collecting the information and experience about the rip currents.
On the other hand, If you start by paddling 2 negative things can happen:
A. You don’t feel the traction of the rip current, you just go with it. And probably you don’t have enough paddling resistance yet to be able to get out of this rip, in a harder day.
B. Your arms will be to consumed for the pop-ups training, which should be the first goal: Pop Up consistency!
Fase 2. we start taking a direction – Right or Left
First consideration: The reference is always the partitioner taking the wave, to define if the direction of the wave is going Left or right.
Waves to the right:
In which the reference is Surfer facing the beach, who catches a wave that is higher on his left side and bursts in sequence from left to right.
Waves to the left:
Being the surfer reference, that‘s when the wave resells first on its right side towards the left side.
Surfers also dream a lot of triangular peaks where the same wave can be surfed by two surfers at the same time as this beautiful and perfect breakdown both ways.
Foreigners call it ′′ The Frame “. We call it a triangular peak.
This is one of the very few ways to surf the same wave with a friend! 😉 Please never, surf another person’s wave. Don’t share waves, share the stoke. Check our Article about this subject here: …..
The kind of wave you don‘t want to catch, as we sometimes call a slang of our own, a guillotine!
The closeout is a wave that closes all at the same time quickly, giving no possibility to be surfed on the wall, just allowing us to maybe, go for it, and just drop in front.
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