Harmony between the individual – sea – surfboard
I often hear among my students and other surfers, regardless of levels, the following remark:
❓ “I would like to try a different or smaller board. This one is already too easy?
And I ask, “What do you mean you’re having so much fun you can’t take it anymore!?” 😂 🤷
I know many other reasons for not choosing the right board, but this is one of the most recurring ones.
Once and for all: The board should help us because we already have the sea which is unrepeatable and requires many “flying hours” to learn to feel and read it. Ah, and us, our physical condition and abilities to manage too, getting in our way. Are you sure you want a board that “robs” you of the best part of surfing, the fun, that “feeling” that real surfers know.
🤷. What I’m going to say maybe shocking, but most of the people who are already independent in the sea, still don’t know this “feeling” of sliding in harmony on the board and in the most interesting part of the wave. I don’t care if he is a great surfer, the best on the beach or on his street.
Sometimes the great surfers impose maneuvers on the sea that it doesn’t ask for, and for me, this is not surfing. But I can also see an individual with very little experience of practice, gliding with the harmony that I speak to you, and without knowing anything, there he goes in complete pleasure of slide with the board at sea, in full harmony.
🤔 As I’ve heard it said: “Without knowing how to read or write, that one made a big wave”!
Then there are also those who forget about the sea, either when they paddle out to try to catch the wave and they don’t have enough experience to feel or guess it, who know enough about the sea when they watch others on the beach, but then when they are in their session they “turn their back” on the sea and don’t communicate with the waves, don’t read it, don’t listen to it, and so don’t know what the sea wants to tell them.
🎖 For these I have a tip: You will feel the sea, no board. Just you and the waves. Do little reels, cut the green waves, make contests with friends, to see who goes longer in the wave! Indispensable condition, to move on to Level 1, at Good Surf Good Love.
Seriously, the real feeling, the reason why we miss social and family events, wake up at the crack of dawn, drive miles and miles behind perfect waves, is more than the contact with nature. It is more than the good that the sea does us.
The greatest good is to feel that HARMONY, the full control of sliding with the right board, in the right place of the wave, without using our strength before we have explored the energetic potential of the wave.
😉 And you, have you felt that full harmony? 😁
💬 How would you describe the feeling when running the wave?